#1916 spanish mauser 308 review full

I am relatively certain that the commercial mandrels sold by Brownells are 60 degrees. I cut mine 55 degrees, but the truth is that 60 degrees would work as well. For Mausers, I have one for large ring (1.100 - 12) and one for small ring (0.980 - 12). Also after the face is trued do you use a round disc that fits inside the minor thread dia or a partial disc that is closer to the undercut behind the threads to lap the lugs?I use the same mandrel for all actions of the same nominal thread size. But I will leave that for next post.Р”Вo you use the action as a thread gage or do you make the threads to a TMR to fit a broad range of receivers? I ask because I am sure that there is a fair amount of variation in thread size from a gun made 100+- years ago. Is there a way to tighten the bolt in the receiver so it doest flop around so much without re machining the entire receiver or making a new bolt? After receiver and bolt are ready I plan t have my heat treater case harden (atmospheric vacuum furnace) before mounting barrel. I then plan to chuck up and indicate the receiver so that I can take a skim cut to square up the face and chamfer for appearance.

#1916 spanish mauser 308 review full

I plan to make a jig and lap the receiver lugs as well as the bolt lugs to bring everything smooth and in full contact.

Inspection of the lugs on bolt and in receiver show some uneven wear but do not appear to have any setback. This thing is in rough shape and seeing as I have no gunsmithing experience to draw from I am asking for a little help. I cleaned up the receiver and disassembled the bolt. Yesterday I made up an action wrench to use in my H frame press and removed the barrel. I will be using a cartridge with equal or less PSI than the 7x57 cartridge that it was originally chambered for. I know these are not exactly the cream of the crop, but at least I wont worry to much should I have an issue. I was given a beat up 1916 SM by a buddy and I plan to make a project out of it.